A couple of weeks back I was getting a lift with a fellow Couchsurfer, Jasmin, who was heading up to the Northland of New Zealand when we happened to stumble onto a traditional Māori Hāngi feast. It was an unbelievable time that was unexpected, and I don’t think many tourists get this real of an experience.

Preparing the Hāngi

A Hāngi is a Māori method of cooking food for special occasions, involving hours of hard work and preparation that results in a scrumptious feast. To “lay a hāngi” the Māori dig a pit in the ground, fill it with heated rocks and bury baskets of food for around 3hrs or more before digging it out. The method helps trap the flavor and makes everything super tender.

We were on our way up to the beautiful beach town of Paihia and Bay of Islands when a local from Maungataruto (also a Couchsurfer) contacted Jasmin and told her to check out the area. We linked up with Rob in the tiny town and decided to go check out the nearby Māori Marae, a large meeting hall used for large gatherings, celebrations, and meetings.

Church in Maungaturoto

Off we went down a gravel road to the area where Rob said he would sometimes camp out with his school when learning about the Māori culture. It was a small flat field, with nothing around except a newly renovated church and the gated Marae. To the shock of us all, even Rob, the entire town was gathered there, turns out they were celebrating the renewal of one of New Zealand’s oldest churches.

The next phrase completely sums up up the dinner: Om nom nom!

At a Marae, it is customary to be invited in through the gateway with prayer and singing, and with the town watching us it definitely put us on the spot. After being invited inside, the local Māori school teacher recognized Rob from when he was younger and embraced us all.

She insisted we join them in the celebration, and conveniently they had just started seating for the feast. I was sat at the head of my table, and it felt like all eyes were on me as the whole town was there, yet everyone at the table rested my nerves and we amazingly welcoming.

Then the chow down began. A plate covered in tin foil was passed to me and hidden underneath was an array of chicken, pork ribs, boiled pumpkin and other various morsels. It was heaven!

Traditional Hāngi dishes

The meat from the chicken and ribs just fell off the bone; juicy, fatty and soft. I had never had boiled pumpkin in my life and mistakenly thought it was sweet potatoes, but it added to the flavor explosions in my mouth.

The new younger Māori school teacher passed me two plastic cups filled with what appeared to be potato salad and a seafood medley. I had never tried mussels or red snapper (and I may have never tried it otherwise) but I dug into the seafood medley and the red snapper salad. To my surprise, I loved it, and told everyone at the table about my usual picky food habits.

My mouth is literally watering as I am writing this, remembering all the food!

Hot Rocks

During various times of the meal someone would stand up, hush everyone, and make a speech. One of the others at the table was nice enough to summarize and translate the speeches and they all involved praising the “hot hands” or the workers for preparing the meal and those who had passed on. It was something that hit hard, and it made me really appreciate the people who slave in kitchens, hospitality or homes and something I feel people should do more often.

As the feast wrapped up and the dishes cleared, I also indulged in learning about Māori culture and phrases. With a full belly I said my thanks, “Kia Ora” which can be a greeting or thanks, and happily waddled knowing I was “Ti takapuna” or really damn full! I couldn’t find the proper spelling or phrase for that last bit, but that is what the school teacher told me was the saying.

I would urge everyone visiting New Zealand to try to get to know some locals and attend a Hāngi celebration, if not then at least attend one on a tour. You with devour some tantalizing food and meet some great people with soaking in the Māori culture. I was well stuffed for a couple of days and fell into a food coma easily that night.

*NOTE: Theses are not my photos. No pictures were taken at the event because it wasn’t on a tour and I didn’t want to be rude or come off as a tourist. I just sat back, stuffed my face and enjoyed the experience!

email

Share on Tumblr

Did you enjoy it? Promote this post!